6 medium potatoes, peeled and covered with cold water
1 small onion, peeled and grated
2 tablespoons flour
4 strips thick-sliced bacon, crisply cooked and chopped
2 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste
Pinch of freshly-ground black pepper, or to taste
Pinch of freshly-grated nutmeg, or to taste
2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
1/4 cup unsalted butter, or as needed
Drain potatoes well; immediately grate potatoes into a large bowl using a cheese grater. Drain (or blot off with paper towels) any water that collects. Add grated onion, flour, bacon, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley to the potatoes; blend together well. Heat enough butter in a deep, heavy skillet to measure 1/4-inch deep. Just before the butter turns brown, drop in 1/3 cup of the prepared batter for each pancake. Quickly flatten each pancake with a spatula — and do not crowd the pan. After browning one side, carefully turn each pancake and brown the other side. Remove to paper towels and keep warm while remaining pancakes are cooked. Serve hot with warmed maple syrup and a fresh fruit garnish. — Makes 12
For more than 100 years Luchow’s was considered one of America’s most famous German restaurants. It was established in 1882 in New York City’s East Village near Union Square, when the surrounding neighborhood was primarily residential. August Lüchow, a German immigrant, purchased the cafe where he worked as a bartender and waiter. It was William Steinway (of piano fame) who set August Lochow up in business with a $1,500 loan — and he ate there daily! Luchow’s continued in operation at this original location for a full century. It became a favorite for people in the entertainment world, because of its proximity to New York’s Academy of Music, the city’s opera house, Steinway Hall and Tammany Hall, where other entertainment was offered.
A 1930s columnist, O. O. McIntyre, once wrote that “In a changing world, nothing changes at Lüchow’s.” — but the famous, long-running establishment did eventually come to an end. In 1982, in an attempt to stimulate business, the restaurant moved to New York’s Theater District, but that effort failed after only 2 years. Other satellite locations of the famous restaurant closed permanently in May 1986. Even the famous 14th Street building — original home of the long-standing restaurant — was finally demolished in 1995 after being gutted by a fire the year before.
I never personally got to experience this famous New York restaurant, but I do enjoy German food — and I do have Luchow’s 224-page cookbook (published in 1952) which tells their very interesting story and features favorite dishes from the restaurant. During my childhood years my German grandmother prepared many of these same dishes for our family, so you know that my copy of this special vintage cookbook holds a place of honor in my cookbook collection. Potato Pancakes (Kartoffel Pfannkuchen) and many other German dishes are still big favorites for me today! My version of this very popular Luchow’s recipe is from a 1964 cookbook which is filled with specialty-of-the-house recipes from many of America’s leading restaurants.